In the July-August 1996 issue of Archaeology magazine, there was a report on
the archaeological excavations in downtown Beirut. I had known about this
report for a while, thanks to someone's unhappy comments on SCL, but only
recently did I finally order this back issue from Archaeology magazine's
website.
It is not a pretty picture. The article by Albert F.H. Naccache, a professor
at the Lebanese University, is very depressing and reveals the ugly truth that
propaganda in Beirut has been attempting to hide. Some of the photographs are
not for the faint of heart.
Excavations in downtown Beirut began in October 1993. I happened to be there
on a visit, and I witnessed the very first results of the work, the revelation
of the vaulted basement of the Ottoman-era Petit Serail, which had been
destroyed in the 1950s to make way for a parking lot in Martyrs Square. I was
heartened by the sights and the optimistic media reports. I sincerely thought
that all that was found would be saved, either on-site or through careful
removal to another place.
In August 1995, I returned to Beirut and saw the extensive digs. There were
areas of impressive ruins that had been unearthed, especially in the area of
the old souks northwest of Martyrs Square. I mourned the destruction of the
old souks, most of which had survived the war in salvageable form, but I
figured that the ancient ruins underneath were more valuable. But, visible
beyond the digs was a huge, barren hole that had been dug to bedrock level and
below. I wondered what had been found there, and I naively thought that
whatever had been discovered had been carefully documented and removed before
the bulldozers came in. Still, there were reports that some finds had been
abused, including a sarcophagus that had been shattered by bulldozers near the
Murr tower. In fact, I saw its pieces, saved by archaeologists, in a storage
area for artifacts in the downtown area. I also saw Roman columns below street
level in front of the old Municipality Building (Baladiyyeh) that had been
excavated; they showed fresh damage from bulldozer teeth.
The Archaeology magazine article recounts the sordid story. In short, the
original plans for downtown Beirut called for excavating only two percent of
the area, a violation of Lebanon's antiquities law that calls for excavating
all known sites before construction can proceed. There was a race between
archaeologists and the bulldozers in certain areas. UNESCO was invited to
handle the archaeological excavations, and it made a very inadequate proposal.
In March 1992, John Schofield of the Museum of London Archaeological Services,
who was at the AUB at the time, made an alternate plan. Already, architectural
landmarks had been demolished, including several of the old souks and the
ornate Police Building on Martyrs Square; that building had been specifically
targeted for restoration. In November 1992, a new plan was made for excavating
downtown Beirut, one that would be managed by UNESCO but would fail to protect
everything. In fact, in some areas, "the bulldozers would be monitored by
archaeologists." This all took place despite the efforts of Naccache and
others to come out with a strong plan.UNESCO's manager of excavations in
Beirut declared that "archaeologists would follow the bulldozers."
In June 1994, with just a few months before infrastructure work was to start,
archaeological excavations began in the old souks area. Archaeologists were
able to excavate only a small area (3588 out of 71760 square yards), and
infrastructure work began six weeks ahead of schedule. Some 282,000 cubic feet
of Beirut's ancient tell had been bulldozed and dumped in the sea, without it
ever being excavated for archaeological remains, before UNESCO's monitor was
notified a week too late. The remains of the fort of Beirut near the port were
destroyed. Despite the best efforts of Naccache and other archaeologists, 3.5
million cubic feet had been lost by May 1995. Naccache called this "the
greatest archaeological disaster of the century." His views were later ignored
by the media, and a propaganda campaign was stepped up; favorable reports
appeared in international media. By January 1997, 7 million cubic feet of
Beirut's past had been destroyed.
The pictures accompanying the article say it all. One shows a Phoenician
neighborhood in the old souks area sitting like a raised peninsula surrounded
by a huge hole that had been dug below the bedrock. Only 25 percent of that
area had been excavated before the bulldozers moved in. Another shows a
backhoe literally looming over the heads of archaeologists working a dig. Yet
another shows the ancient walls of Beirut, damaged by road construction. An
18th Century BC tomb of a child was cut through by bulldozers.
This begs the question: Why? Beirut's downtown area was in ruins and unused
for fifteen years of war; some delays to allow the excavation of artifacts
would not have spelled the end of Lebanon. Why the sudden rush to rebuild, at
the expense of archaeology? We blew a unique chance to meticulously excavate
every square meter of downtown Beirut and document and save or move everything
found. For what? That huge hole going through the bedrock in the old souks
area will become an underground garage. Once more, cars rule! Would it not
have been better to build above-ground garage buildings (disguised to look
like real buildings, with stores on the ground floor) than to destroy such a
vast area? In Paris, ancient ruins were found in the square in front of Notre
Dame cathedral. They were excavated, then covered with a concrete ceiling on
top of which the old square was rebuilt. Visitors can go down and view the
ruins, professionally lit with floodlights. The same could have been done
under the streets, buildings, and, yes, parking garages of Beirut.
This is the same profit-motivated mentality that has resulted in the
destruction of Lebanon's landscape by pollution, quarries, tree cutting, and
mindless construction. Will Lebanon's way of thinking ever change? It's
already too late for huge swaths of Beirut's irreplaceable history, 5000 years
in the making, gone in a few months.
You can order the July-August 1996 issue of Archaeology magazine at
http://www.he.net/~archaeol/index.htm, or find it at your local university or
public library.
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